Precision v. Efficiency: Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast - Aidan Pinsk

Precision vs. Efficiency: Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast

By Aidan Pinsk

Climbing requires a blend of precision and efficiency, depending on the style and terrain. Mastering both speeds is key to improving performance, with precision favoring slower, careful movement and efficiency relying on faster, fluid motions.

Precision

Characterized by controlled, deliberate movement—perfect for technical climbs. Precise climbers like Jain Kim excel at placing hands and feet accurately, but can struggle with committing to risky moves or tiring out due to fine motor engagement.

Efficiency

Fast, dynamic movement to minimize energy use and maximize momentum. Climbers like Sean McColl thrive on speed, committing quickly to sequences, but may sacrifice precision on more delicate routes.

Balancing Precision and Efficiency

The goal is to find a balance—your personal “P/E Curve”—where you optimize both elements for peak performance. It’s crucial to adapt your climbing style based on the route and desired outcome.

Exercises to Improve Efficiency:

1. Instinctual Climbing: Move quickly without overthinking on spray walls or system boards.
2. No Preview Onsights: Skip previewing routes to encourage faster decision-making.
3. Timed Climbs: Set a goal time for reaching key points on the wall.

Exercises to Enhance Precision:

1. Extended Route Preview: Take extra time to plan sequences.
2. Spray Wall with Tiny Feet: Use the smallest footholds to refine placement.
3. Hover Drills: Pause hands or feet before committing to each hold.

Cross-Training Recommendations

For efficiency, try Ninja Warrior-style dynamic training. For precision, explore quadrupedal movements like bear crawls. Balancing both styles will expand your capabilities and confidence on any route.

Summary:
Finding the right balance between precision and efficiency is key. Practice these drills, experiment with styles, and enjoy the process—remember, slow is smooth, and smooth is fast!